Then plug the RCA Interconnects into the subwoofer output of the head-unit. On some radios with only two sets of RCA outputs, the rears can be switched from rear speaker output to subwoofer output. After making these connections, drop the cables down below the dash and route them to the opposite side of the car that the power wire is in order to reduce the chance of electrical noise from the power cable.
Run these RCAs back just like the power cable by hiding them under the trim-panels in the vehicle and only becoming visible near the amp. That is it for this step assuming you have an aftermarket head unit with RCA outputs. If you have a factory stereo then you'll do things differently. First off, make sure your amp has speaker-level inputs and "signal sensing" turn-on capability. If the amp does, you can just tap into the speaker wires behind your stereo, or possibly the rear deck speakers, to get signal to the amp.
If it does not have signal sensing then you will have to use a fuse-tap and find an ignition source to run as the remote. Believe it or not, after working in the industry for a few years, I noticed that if a person came into the store with an amp that was acting funky that most times it was because of a bad or corroded ground wire. So consider this the most important step in your installation. You want your ground wire to be as short as possible, but with enough slack to be able to move the amp around if it needs to be removed or changed out for an amplifier with the inputs or outputs on different sides.
After locating a grounding position as low as possible to the chassis, and not using a factory bolt, make sure you sand all the paint off of the surface, and if using a longer self-tapping metal screw, be sure that there is no obstacles on the other side of the metal such as brake lines or the fuel tank. After the paint has been sanded off about the size of a nickel to a quarter place a washer on the top of the ground wire's ring terminal and secure the terminal to the vehicle with the metal screw.
Make sure it is tight, but also be sure not to strip the hole made by the screw which isn't as hard as you think. We have power, we have signal, and we have ground. The power and RCA cables should run on opposite sides of the vehicle, to reduce noise — but it won't matter for the turn-on lead's low current.
Route the patch cables to the opposite side of the vehicle from the power cable. It's important to separate the patch cables from the power wires as much as possible to avoid potential noise problems. Now you can partially re-install the radio in the dash. Avoid completely re-installing it if you can, in case you need to fix a problem later.
If you're using a factory radio with no RCA outputs, you can get your amplifier's input signals from the factory speaker wiring. The speakers will be getting their signal from the new amplifier — which leaves the radio's outputs available to use for the amp's inputs. There are two ways to do this: get a line output converter LOC that'll adjust the speaker-level signal for your amp's input, or get an amplifier with speaker-level inputs. You cut the factory speaker wires behind the radio, and connect the wires coming from the radio to your LOC or amp's inputs.
Learn more about line output converters. Now you have to provide a way for the music to get from your new amp to the speakers. The best way to do that is to run a new speaker wire from each amplifier output to each speaker.
Use or gauge wire for speakers, or gauge for subwoofers. Speaker-level signals are not very prone to picking up interference, so it's okay to run your speaker wires near power cables.
Running wires is all about finding the best path. Here, we're running a bundle of speaker wires across the backseat to the amp in the trunk. You'll have to run each wire for your door speakers through the rubber gasket or boot around the hinge, to protect the wires from the weather or from getting pinched in the door. There may be a Molex plug or a similar obstruction blocking the way, but you can usually find a place to drill a hole through it big enough to fit your wire through.
Disconnect or cut the factory speaker wires and connect the new wires directly to each speaker terminal. It is important that you keep the polarity of your speaker wiring straight. This means that each positive terminal of the amp connects to a positive terminal of a speaker — and the same goes for the negative terminals. This ensures that your speakers will operate in mechanical phase — all the speaker cones moving the same direction with the same kind of signal — and will sound balanced when playing together.
The positive and negative terminals of each speaker should be labeled, but if not, the positive terminal will usually be wider than the negative terminal. You cut each speaker wire from the receiver's harness and reconnect it to a speaker wire coming from the amp.
Then, the signal can flow from the amp to the speakers by way of the vehicle's original factory wiring. This technique will work fine in systems with up to 75 watts RMS of power per channel — but for more powerful systems it would be better to run new speaker wire directly from the amp to each speaker. Check out How to connect an amplifier to a factory stereo to see how this can be done.
Neatly drape or trim each wire and connect it to the amp. Make gentle curves with the wires, not sharp bends that could pinch. Many people cut small slits in their vehicle's carpeting and run their wires underneath, for stealthy installations that look factory-neat.
A wiring snake comes in handy for this. Tape your wires to the snake, fish it under and through to where you want your wires to go, and pull them on through. RCA cables routed through slits in the vehicle's carpet, and connected to the amplifier's signal inputs.
Check all of your wiring, from the battery and receiver to the amp and speakers, making sure every connection is tight and secure with no stray wire strands laying out that could cause a short circuit. Especially, check that the ground connection is tight and secure. Set all the amplifier's gains to minimum, and turn off all the filters and any bass boost or EQ it may have.
See that the main fuse is properly installed in its holder. Then, reconnect your car's negative battery cable. Turn on your car, then turn on the radio. Verify that the amplifier powered up there'll probably be an indicator light on it somewhere. Play some music and turn the volume up just loud enough to hear.
If everything sounds right, you can finish re-installing the stereo and all your vehicle's paneling, and then move ahead to step Setting your amplifier's gain, or input sensitivity, matches the amp's input level with the receiver's output level, resulting in maximum distortion-free music and minimum background noise.
For a detailed explanation of how to do this, read our article about setting the gains on a 4-channel amplifier. Usually, once you've installed your amp, you can turn on the stereo and immediately enjoy all the extra power and detail in your music. But sometimes things just don't work like we expect them to right from the start. If this happens to you, don't get stressed out too much. Read our article about troubleshooting your amp installation for help with finding and solving the most common problems.
Your best first step is to call Crutchfield and talk to an Advisor about what your amplifier will need. They'll make sure you get all the necessary hardware and accessories for a successful and satisfying installation.
And remember, anything you buy from Crutchfield comes with free lifetime tech support. Just click on "Contact Us" at the top of this page for the toll-free number and other methods of contacting us. My current set up is using a factory installed Rockford Fosgate 10 speaker system in a Nissan Titan with an aftermarket HU.
I'm wanting to put in a 4 X amp and upgrade the lower door speakers. Is it okay to continue to use the factory Fosgate amp for the 3 dash and upper door speakers while using the RCA outputs from the HU to send signal to the amp for the 4 lower door speakers?
Someone gave me a Jensen 2-channel amp to put with my 2 Kenwood Kfc-wps subs and I don't think the amp will push the 2 subs. Suggested edit. No need to display this. Fairly common knowledge, but still Specify which terminal on the battery to connect the power cable to.
So I installed a jvs assassin watt amp to run 6x9. Problem is only bass no highs. What is wrong. I will be replacing a stock head unit of a Ford f with a Kenwood head unit.
Truck has an after market Alpine amp installed years ago. What needs to be done to use your ready made wire harness and SWC that I have ordered from Crutchfield along with the Kenwood? I am installing an older 45 watt per channel 80 max two-channel amp in the back of my year-old car and running an 8-gauge wire for it.
My question is: do I need also need an 8-gauge fuse holder at the battery connection? I have one, but it is huge. And since the amplifier only requires a amp fuse, it looks like overkill.
A 10 or gauge fuse holder would fit in the space near the battery better. But always a but! I don't want to choke down the 8-gauge wire at the very beginning of the ft run. I am using the 8-gauge to future proof the install in case I need to install a newer, more powerful amp at some point. Head has 2 line out Jack's, amp has 4 line ins. I'm trying to run 4 speakers from the amp. I tried splitters but the out put is weak. It's a jensen xda94rb amp, the control app is worthless.
Much stress, please help. Installing on a motorcycle. Simple enough for the power wire, and ground wire. However, my ACC wire on the bike is connected to a 2 prong plug. One side goes to where it needs to go to give power when the key is turned on, the other side goes to ground If the sound gets muddy when you turn it up, you need the added power of an amplifier. You probably know the difference in sound between your TV speakers and a home theater system. An amplifier in your vehicle can make that kind of difference.
You'll hear a bigger, fuller sound, with more detail and greater impact, especially if you've installed better speakers in your vehicle. The first consideration is how many speakers you'll be powering and how much power each speaker will handle.
Once you know that, you'll know how many amplifier channels you'll need and how much power you'll want. Yes, you can, as long as you have a basic knowledge of electronics and you're handy with tools. You'll have to run a power wire from your vehicle's battery back to your amp's location, and then a ground wire from the amp to your vehicle's chassis.
It's important to do the job correctly so you don't damage your vehicle. Now connect the wire from splitter to input outlet of first and another to the output outlet of the first amp.
The second wire has a male plug that will be connected to the next amp. Where do you connect RCA cables? Is a capacitor needed for subs? How do I connect two amplifiers to one source? How do you bridge speakers? How do you hook up a amp without a RCA jack? There are almost three methods available to hook up your amplifier without using any RCA jacks.
READ: when someone else calls your bestfriend their bestfriend. How to Ground a Stereo Receiver. Choose an adequate ground. The household metal that attaches directly into the ground is typically a cold water pipe. Can you ground two amps to the same spot? Is it OK to mount your amp to your sub box?
Can you mount an amp upside down? READ: what to put your boyfriend as in your contacts. You can wire a 4 channel amp to 6 speakers in many ways. You must pay close attention during this process. Make sure you do not pinch the power wire or accidentally cut the power wire while you are running it through the engine bay. Install an inline fuse. This fuse will protect your vehicle from being destroyed in case of a power wiring shorting. You will need to remove the rocker panel and kick panel covers to do this as well.
Continue to run your power wire to it's destination point where the amp is mounted. Be mindful to avoid any pinch points such as seat tracks or door jambs. Connect your power wire to the amplifier using the correct hardware such as ring terminal. Connect the blue wire to the remote.
Use plastic zip ties to secure your power wire to make sure it doesn't move or interfere with surrounding wires. Run the RCA cables and the remote turn-on wire typically a blue wire but you will need to check your head unit's manual from the back of your head unit to your amplifier's mounting location. However, run your RCA cables on the opposite side of vehicle. You do not want to run power wires and signal cables on the same side of the vehicle. This could induce noise into your system.
Connect the remote turn-on wire to your amplifier using an appropriate connector such as a ring terminal. Run your speaker wires from your speakers to your amplifier. If your running your speakers from the inside of your vehicle; make sure you run them on the same side as your RCA cables. Connect the speaker wires to your amplifier using the appropriate connectors. Connect the negative terminal of the amplifier to the chassis ground of your vehicle.
The negative wire does not have to be a long piece of wire. If possible, scrape an area that is clear of the gas tank and insert a metal screw.
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